Technician tools

From HelpDeskWiki

As technicians gain experience, and start handling more kinds of problems, their toolkits tend to grow.

As Mark Twain said, "Clothes make the man". In a similar way, tools make the technician. It is difficult for a technician to honestly justify spending hours on something that should have taken only a few minutes if the right tools were on hand. Customers will likely be little impressed when they watch you (unsuccessfully) trying different ways of doing something, and they will not be too interested in asking you to return for another round of fumbling around with their system -- especially if you had the gall to ask for your full regular fee for the hours (theirs AND yours) that you wasted.

The most important tools of a technician, in approximate order, are a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a 1GB or larger USB flash drive to hold software, a multi-tool (ignore Phillips screwdriver attachments; they're usually useless), and a small flashlight. The last three can all easily fit into a pocket or purse.

Below are some other items to consider.

Hardware

In general, you should avoid cheap "PC service toolkits" or "LAN toolkits". An invariable sign of a cheap PC service toolkit is the presence of one or more RAM chip pullers -- which is used for hardware that has not been seen in new computers for nearly a decade now. As for LAN toolkits, a small pair of wire cutters is a necessity but is often not included in cheap kits; the cutters built into most crimpers are of limited usability.

  • Tool bag. Get a sturdy canvas bag to hold everything. They tend to look nice, and will generally take more punishment than a toolbox, and will last for years with little signs of wear. Toolbags typically have many capacious pockets, suitable for holding most of your tools. You may want to get one that is a bit bigger than you think you'll need, since you may have trouble justifying buying a bigger one later when the old one still looks almost as good as it was when you bought it. If nothing else, you'll be able to fill the extra space with spare cards, drives, cables, and so forth. GateMouth and Craftsmen both sell canvas toolbags.
    • GateMouth, 17" long (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002243C/qid=1135877755/sr=1-13/ref=sr_1_13/103-0024879-3974204?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013)
    • Pro Super GateMouth, 19" long (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000226AV/qid=1135877755/sr=1-2/ref=sr_1_2/103-0024879-3974204?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013)
    • GateMouth Long Boy, 24" long (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002243U/qid=1135877755/sr=1-9/ref=sr_1_9/103-0024879-3974204?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=228013)
  • Tool pouches. One for holding commonly-used items, such as a #2 screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, small wire-cutter, and spare computer screws. Also, another pouch for holding less commonly-used stuff that would otherwise get lost in a large tool bag, and which you don't want cluttering up your regular pouch. A pair of thick clear acrylic zippered pouches seem to work ok. Unfortunately, don't know where to get these,
  • PCI Express diagnostic card (http://www.google.com/search?q=PCI+Express+diagnostic+card), to find out why a computer won't boot. PCI Express is found on all new computers; you may want a PCI diagnostic card for older computers.
  • Roll-up keyboard (http://www.google.com/search?q=roll-up+keyboard), as seen in computer hacker movies, made of flexible plastic or rubber and can be rolled up and stuck in the pocket of a toolbag. It will probably not be suitable for regular use, but good if you have a sudden need for a keyboard (if you suspect a bad keyboard, for example). Try to get one that is USB with a PS/2 adapter.
  • ATX power supply tester (http://www.google.com/search?q=ATX+power+supply+tester). Note that a power supply can be bad even if a tester says that it's ok, although that may depend upon the tester. I've seen this one, and it can test all of the power connectors found in modern computers, although the documentation is lacking (almost non-existent), and some people have reported trouble removing ATX and floppy connectors, and it complains if you use 20-pin ATX power instead of 24. This item is sold retail under a number of other brand names:
  • Small USB ethernet adapter (http://www.google.com/search?q=usb+ethernet) (if you suspect a bad NIC, for example). May want to get two, for quickly connecting two computers. Don't forget to put the driver on your USB flash drive.
  • USB floppy drive (http://www.google.com/search?q=usb+floppy), to allow reading the dwindling number of 3.5" floppy disks on one of the increasing number of new computers that doesn't have a floppy drive.
  • USB card reader/writer. These multi-format memory card readers handle a large number of memory card types, letting you read and write memory cards from cellphones, cameras, MP3 players, voice recorders, PDAs, and other handheld computer-based devices. In many cases, esecially with older devices, using a card reader is much faster and easier than using the original transfer mechanism and software. For example, a Panasonic PV-DC2590 camera, which uses a CF card, takes about 5 seconds per picture over the original serial port connection, but about 10 seconds for the entire memory card using a USB 1.1 card reader. Here is a reader/writer which, as of this writing, is cheap, well-rated, and supports a significant number of card types:
  • Tape measure, for measuring how much wiring, conduit, etc. is needed. Laser measures are very nice, although relatively expensive (around US$100), and are suitable for precision measurements, although they will not measure distances of less than a foot (about 30 centimeters). Don't get a sonic measure (they typically have laser pointers included), except for use as a kids' toy; they are bsically only suitable for measuring the (short) distance to the broad side of a barn (to mangle an expression), with nothing in the way.
  • Electrical tape, for wiring repairs, also useful for "baling wire and bubblegum" repairs.
  • Telescoping folding mirror, for looking in tight spaces, or for performing oral surgery upon yourself.
  • Multimeter, for checking electrical outlets and so forth.
  • Battery-powered labelmaker and spare label cassette(s); useful for labeling cables, patch panels, wall jacks, your kids, etc. The old manual type will do also.
  • Flashlight. Try an LED flashlight. If you don't use it very often, get lithium batteries, to give it a long shelf life.
    • eternaLight (http://www.techass.com/el/el1.php) is expensive, but fits nicely in a pocket, runs on 3 AA for a very long time (it has power management circuitry), is water resistant, and can turn itself off after a few minutes.
    • The Pak-Lite (http://www.9voltlight.com) connects directly to a 9V battery, and is barely big enough to hold the connectors and two LED lights.
  • RB-2 clip stapler and box of RG-6 Quad clips (http://www.mccartenco.com/products/wandc/index-1867.html). Good for fastening CAT5/6 and 10-base2 coax (thinnet) cable without the risk (even with a cable stapler) of a staple through the cable. You may also want the larger clips (requires a larger stapler) for TV coax and large CAT6 cables.
  • Long-shaft #2 screwdriver. Needed to open CRT monitors to check the fuse or adjust the knobs on the flyback. If you already work on CRT monitors, you already know this. If you don't work on CRT monitors, then this is NOT a suggestion to start doing so.
  • Electrical outlet tester (http://www.google.com/search?q=gfi+outlet+tester), tests that outlet is wired correctly. Get a GFI/GFCI version if you can. Available at hardware stores and at RadioShack (http://www.RadioShack.com).
  • Telephone line tester (http://www.google.com/search?q=2-line+%22telephone+line+tester%22+price+-digital), tests that jack is wired correctly, including 2nd line. Available at RadioShack (http://www.RadioShack.com) and probably at hardware stores. A number of other types of testers have the same or similar functionality built in.
  • Test-Um TP100 jack identifier (http://www.testumdistributor.com.php?prod=tp100/proddetail), useful for buildings that use digital phone systems and/or RJ45 ports for phones (but can be used with RJ11/12), will tell you what kind of signal appears to be on the jack.
  • Network cable tester. DO NOT try out ANY high-end cable testers unless you have money in hand, because once you do, you'll never know how you ever managed to get along with a low-end tester. Medium-end testers are in the US$300 range, while high-end testers are in the US$1000 range. The minimal functionality that you should get is a tester that tests conductors, not pairs. Conductor testers will have 8 or 9 indicators, one for each wire in the cable. The best deal for one of these testers appears to be here (http://shopv2.elstonsystems.com/product_info.php/products_id/45). The only apparent difference between this US$15 tester and ones that go for about US$75 is that this one does not have a manual/auto switch, which seems to be little loss, especially for the price. For more sophisticated testers, Test-Um (http://www.testumdistributor.com) tools seem to be excellent value for the price. A good mid-range tester is the Test-Um NT-750 (http://www.testumdistributor.com/proddetail.php?prod=nt750). This device can not only do the standard CAT5 cable testing, but can, among other things, also tell you how long the cable is, identify how far to a broken wire (can measure length of individual pairs), identify whether there's a good ethernet or phone signal on the line and the details about it, and can produce a tone for use with the tone tracer. Sophisticated testers can perform some or all of these additional functions:
    • Test that jacks have appropriate voltage on appropriate conductors.
    • Report what a live cable is apparently used for (phone (POTS), ethernet, ISDN, token ring, digital phone).
    • Can report shorts (two wires shorted), opens (appears to be no wire, which can tell you which end of a patch cable did not crimp properly), split pairs (pair isn't twisted together), reversed pairs, and miswires.
    • Report length of cable. Less sophisticated models use resistance measurement (which gives an approximation of the distance), while more sophisticated (expensive) models use the more accurate TDR.
    • Report length of pairs. This can be used to detect distance to broken wire or improperly-connected plug.
    • Generation of one or more tones ("fox") on all or individual wires for use with a detector ("hound"). The "fox" can be plugged into a wall outlet, and the "hound" used to find the other end on a patch panel.
    • Report which of several remotes is on the other end of a cable, useful for labeling patch panel jacks and/or wall jacks.
    • One-ended testing (can partially check cable before other end is terminated).
    • Blink link light on hub.
    • Report type of network device on other end (NIC, hub, crossover, or inactive).
    • Report network link speed and duplex (some testers support gigabit capability).
    • Test speed capability of unconnected cable.
    • DHCP server info
    • Ping test.
    • Use TDR to check signal quality, including determining the distance to shorts, breaks, loops, and kinks.
    • Certify for electrical conformance to some of the IEEE 802.3 (gigabit) specs, including SKEW, BERT, NEXT, etc.
    • Store data to flash memory or transfer to computer.
    • PC software for creating building layouts
  • Stud/wire/current finder. Drilling a hole through electrical wiring is probably unwise.
  • Portable butane torch/iron and butane refill bottle. Nice if you need to do soldering, or if you need to use a paperclip to repair broken plastic parts; butane means it doesn't need electricity. Available at RadioShack (http://www.RadioShack.com).
  • QuikStrip (http://www.quikstrip.com) cable-stripping tool. This is a self-adjusting tool which will strip almost any cable or wire, without using a sharp edge that can cut wire, and without adjustments. They have a tendency to dislocate and will sometimes double-strip cables (so that wire is tripped also), but are probably worthwhile anyway.
  • Cable ties. In addition to the standard nylon ties, take a look at velcro straps (including double-sided rolls of velcro that can be cut off) and Mille-ties (http://www.millepede.com/products/cable-ties.htm).
  • Bit kit (http://search-desc.ebay.com:80/100-spanner-torq-torx-hex-phillips-square-spline-clutch_W0QQcatrefZC5QQfbdZ1QQfclZ3QQflocZ1QQfromZR14QQfrppZ50QQfsclZ1QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfssZ0QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQftsZ2QQnojsprZyQQpfidZ0QQsacatZQ2d1QQsacqyopZgeQQsacurZ0QQsadisZ200QQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ0QQsaslopZ1QQsofocusZbsQQsorefinesearchZ1?ssPageName=ADME:X:EMTFS:US:3) with different types of screwdriver bits, including security bits (for tamper-proof screws). Also need a handle to go with them.
  • Electric screwdriver, for when you need to put in a bunch of long screws.
  • Jeweler's screwdrivers.
  • Mini-wrenches.
  • Spare 9V and AA batteries for tools, spare CR2032 batteries for most modern computers, and maybe some older computer battery types. See here (http://www.batterymart.com/battery_faq.php#cmos). You may want to get http://www.google.com/pda?q=lithium+AA lithium AA] batteries, which are not cheap, but have a shelf life of a decade or so, and also have the longest run time. Lithium 9V batteries (http://www.google.com/pda?q=lithium+9v) are also available but are not readily available in most stores.
  • Spare cables: USB A-B cable, USB extension cable, CAT5/6 patch cable, PS/2 extension cable, standard power cable, two-prong power cable, power supply Y-splitter, Molex to SATA power adapter, SATA data cable, ATA 80-pin data cable, PS/2-to-USB converter (get a BEIGE model; they work with non-standard devices such as scanguns), serial-to-USB converter, parallel-to-USB converter.
  • RJ45 (CAT5/6) join.
  • Crossover box. Take a small single-jack surface-mount box and add a short cable with a plug on the end. Connect the cable to the box, wired as a crossover. This saves you from having to carry around a separate crossover cable that you might accidentally try to use. Many new network devices automatically handle crossovers.
  • Combination wireless USB network adapter and hotspot detector. Might want to also get a regular wireless USB adapter; the two can be used together to quickly connect two computers. Don't forget to put the drivers on your USB flash drive. Modern smartphones with wireles network capability can also function as hotspot detectors, using programs such as WiFiFoFum2 (http://www.aspecto-software.com/rw/applications/wififofum). Many smartphones can also be configured to work as a wireless modem (usually for an extra charge), which may be helpful if often in locations without internet, or if internet access doesn't seem to be working.
  • USB Bluetooth adapter. Many cellphones, mice, and PDAs support Bluetooth, so you may find this useful.
  • USB IrDA adapter; many cellphones and PDAs support IrDA, so you may find this useful.
  • Small USB hub.
  • One or two 4G (available for under US$10) or larger USB flash drive. Strongly recommended is a model that is retractable or has a permanently-attached cap. Suggested type is short (low leverage to break), thin (to plug in two next to each other at the same time), with a read-only/read-write switch, and with encryption and boot capability, and ReadyBOOST capable, although getting all of those features at the same time will cost more than they're worth. These are far more durable and portable than CD/DVD discs. They do tend to break and die (fry), however, so be sure to back them up regularly, and be sure to have a spare handy.
  • Tester for standard cable types.
  • RJ45 cable crimper and clips.


Software

Example software listed is all freeware or working trial versions, so that it can be left on a client's computer. All software should be latest version, since older versions almost always have known security flaws; you may need older versions for older OSes, though. Be sure to get full versions, so that internet access is not needed in order to install and run. Most of the software listed below is typically better than for-pay software.

  • System information program (SIW (http://www3.sympatico.ca/gtopala/about_siw.html) is an excellent freeware system information program that will let you see nearly everything about a client's Windows installation, setup and hardware that you need to know.)
  • Good defragmenter (such as Diskeeper Pro trial version), although the built-in one will generally do.
  • Good registry cleaner (such as [www.ccleaner.com CCleaner]).
  • Good system cleanup utility (CCleaner does this also)
  • Hard drive diagnostics (such as DataAdvisor (http://www.ontrack.com/dataadvisor))
  • Adobe Reader (http://get.adobe.com/uk/reader/otherversions)
  • OpenOffice (http://www.openoffice.org) office suite compatible with Microsoft Office. A version is available which can be installed to a USB flash drive.
  • AdobeFlash player (http://www.adobe.com/products/flashplayer). An older version comes built-in to Windows.
  • Good firewall (such as Kerio or Tiny Personal Firewall (http://www.oldversion.com/program.php?n=tpfirewall)). If you have a NAT router, that will normally work as a low-end hardware firewall, although it won't catch unexpected outbound traffic. More recent versions of Windows, such as Windows 7, have greatly-improved firewalls.
  • Good anti-spyware and updates, such as [www.microsoft.com/Security_essentials Microsoft Security Essentials]. Note that Microsoft Security Essentials requires authentication (which requires online access) before it will install. You should also have a second-opinion scanner, such as MalwareBytes AntiMalware (http://www.malwarebytes.org/mbam.php)
  • Good antivirus and updates, such as Avira, Avast!, or AVG. Microsoft Security Essentials also acts as an antivirus.
  • IE-SpyAd (passively blocks spyware sites), good for people who don't have Windows XP.
  • SpywareBlaster (passively blocks spyware from installing)
  • FireFox (even if you don't like it, it often works when Internet Explorer doesn't)
  • Magical Jellybean Keyfinder (http://www.magicaljellybean.com/keyfinder), retrieves license keys for many applications, including Windows. Can even retrieve the Windows license key for a saved drive or a copied hive file.
  • RootkitRevealer (http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb897445.aspx)
  • HijackThis (http://free.antivirus.com/hijackthis)
  • Service Pack 3 full install for XP or Service Pack 1 full install for Vista.
  • Doug Knox's Unbrand.VBS (removes IE and OE branding, which can sometimes interfere with using other ISPs)
  • Freeware CD/DVD burner software, such as CDBurnerXP (http://cdburnerxp.se/download.php), Deep Burner (http://www.deepburner.com/?r=download), or Microburner (http://www.silentnight2004.com/microburner.html). Note that Windows 7 has firly-complete no-frills support for burning CDs, DVDs, and Blu-Ray, including the ability to burn ISO files.
  • WinsockFix (often fixes connection problems)
  • Emergency Boot CD and/or Ultimate Boot CD
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